Neocaridina Shrimp Care Guide
Learn how to keep, feed, and breed Neocaridina (Cherry) shrimp the simple way — stable, colourful, and stress-free. We’ll focus on practical basics and link to our Water Cycling Guide when needed.
A complete reference for refining Neocaridina davidi husbandry: parameter discipline, colony dynamics, and colour-line management. Built on proven breeding-room experience and solid data.
Introducing Neocaridina Shrimp
Neocaridina davidi — better known as Cherry Shrimp — are tiny freshwater crustaceans that bring life and colour to planted aquariums. In nature they thrive in calm, oxygen-rich streams with rocks, moss, and leaf litter. Your tank can easily mimic this: clean water, steady temperature, and plenty of surfaces to graze on.
They come in a rainbow of selectively bred colours — red, blue, yellow, orange, even green. Keep their environment stable, avoid sudden changes, and they’ll breed and display naturally vibrant shades without special equipment.
Neocaridina davidi inhabit cool, vegetated streams across East Asia, often around root tangles and cobbles where current is moderate and detritus flux low. They exhibit broad tolerance but optimal performance arises under consistent alkalinity, modest hardness, and oxygenated flow.
Long-term colony health depends on micro-surface stability and minimal variance. For colour projects, maintain parallel lines to prevent phenotype drift, and prioritise husbandry fundamentals: stable parameters, strong bacterial base, and consistent microflora.
“If your tank is stable, Neocaridina will do the rest — graze, grow, and quietly multiply.”
“If your tank is stable, Neocaridina will do the rest — graze, grow, and quietly multiply.”
Water Movement
Gentle, even circulation keeps oxygen up and biofilm healthy. Aim for sponge or guarded intakes.
Grazing Surfaces
Mosses, wood, rocks, and botanicals create natural feeding areas. More texture means more micro-food.
Stable Chemistry
Keep pH, KH, and GH within target ranges — and change them slowly. Stability beats perfection every time.
Water Movement
Maintain even circulation for O₂ and periphyton. Protect intakes; avoid high shear near moulting zones.
Grazing Surfaces
Maximise micro-surface area with mosses/wood; rotate hardscape to refresh biofilm productivity.
Stable Chemistry
Prioritise KH stability; manage ΔT and TDS drift weekly. Stability > target chasing.
At-a-Glance Targets
These are practical, real-world water and environmental ranges for Neocaridina davidi. Stability beats perfection — steady conditions keep shrimp healthy and breeding.
| Metric | Target | Acceptable Range |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 22–24 °C | 16–28 °C |
| pH | 6.8–7.6 | 6.5–8.0 |
| GH (General Hardness) | 6–12 °dGH | 4–18 °dGH |
| KH (Carbonate Hardness) | 3–8 °dKH | 2–12 °dKH |
| Nitrogen | NH₃/NO₂⁻ = 0 NO₃⁻ < 20–40 ppm | Keep nitrate under 40 ppm |
Values drift as tanks mature — test regularly and adjust gradually.
| Metric | Target | Acceptable Range | Experienced Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 22–24 °C | 16–28 °C | Peak breeding/feeding at 22–24 °C; sustained 28 °C+ raises metabolic stress. |
| pH | 6.8–7.6 | 6.5–8.0 | Aim for ≤ 0.3 pH drift per 24 h. Maintain KH to buffer naturally. |
| GH (General Hardness) | 6–12 °dGH | 4–18 °dGH | Supports moulting and egg formation. Watch shell texture after any change. |
| KH (Carbonate Hardness) | 3–8 °dKH | 2–12 °dKH | Use crushed coral or aragonite for steady buffering; log weekly pH/KH readings. |
| TDS (Total Dissolved Solids) | 180–260 ppm | 150–300 ppm | Track as a stability indicator — calibrate to your remineraliser or local tap, not as a goal alone. |
| Nitrogen | NH₃/NO₂⁻ = 0 NO₃⁻ < 20–40 ppm | Keep nitrate under 40 ppm | Consistent breeders keep NO₃⁻ < 20 ppm. Use plants and partial changes to export waste. |
Values drift as tanks mature — test regularly and adjust gradually.
Setup & Equipment
A good setup makes shrimp keeping simple. You don’t need fancy tech — just a steady tank, clean filtration, and plenty of surfaces for biofilm. Once everything’s cycled, the shrimp handle the rest. Let’s go through the essentials.
Treat your shrimp tank as a stable micro-ecosystem, not a gadget display. Flow paths, oxygen exchange, and surface area determine long-term success more than brand names. Here’s how to build a system that runs itself.
Tank Size & Shape
Go for at least 20–30 L. Bigger tanks are easier to stabilise and give shrimp room to graze. Skip bowls — they fluctuate too fast. A rectangular tank with a lid prevents jumpers and slows evaporation.
Bioload capacity scales roughly 1 adult/L under dense planting and strong biofiltration. Wide, shallow tanks offer better gas exchange and biofilm access than tall ones.
Filtration & Flow
Use a sponge filter powered by an air pump — quiet, cheap, and shrimp-safe. If you prefer a hang-on-back or canister, fit a pre-filter sponge to protect baby shrimp.
Air-driven sponges are ideal for breeding colonies. For display tanks, a small external filter with guarded intake works well. Target a turnover of 5–8× per hour with gentle return flow. Moderate surface agitation maintains CO₂/O₂ equilibrium.
Stable setup = thriving shrimp colony.
Substrate
Inert sand or fine gravel is perfect. Rinse before use and keep 2–3 cm deep. If your KH is very low, mix in a small handful of crushed coral.
Substrate
Use inert silica or pool-filter sand for predictable chemistry. Avoid active soils that acidify long-term. Place coral grit or crushed shell in the filter (not the substrate) to fine-tune buffering.
Plants & Hardscape
Texture is everything. Mosses, driftwood, stones, and botanicals collect biofilm and create shelter. Add catappa leaves or alder cones for natural tannins and beneficial microfauna.
Plants & Hardscape
Maximise micro-surface. Use branching wood and rounded stones; layer botanicals to manage detritus flux. Keep intakes guarded; rotate hardscape occasionally to refresh biofilm productivity.
Lighting
Moderate light encourages plants and biofilm. Too much = algae bloom; too little = dying moss. Run lights for about 6–8 hours daily.
Lighting
Target PAR appropriate for your plants; ramp intensity slowly after trims. Balance photoperiod with O₂ management to avoid night dips.
Heater
Keep a steady 22–24 °C with a reliable thermostat. Avoid sudden drops.
Thermometer
Use digital or stick-on types and check daily — consistency prevents stress moults.
Water Conditioner
Always dechlorinate tap water before adding it to the tank or filter.
Test Kits
Use liquid tests for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, GH, and KH to stay ahead of issues.
Heater
Use a calibrated thermostat; verify with an independent probe quarterly.
Thermometer
Prefer probe or inline sensors; log daily min/max to catch drift.
Water Conditioner
Neutralise chloramine fully; avoid additives that cloud biofilm formation.
Test Kits
Use liquid titration; track NO₃⁻, KH→pH behaviour, and conductance trends weekly.
Fill the tank with dechlorinated water, start the filter, and add a pinch of food or bottled bacteria. Test every few days — once ammonia and nitrite stay at 0, it’s shrimp time!
Seed with mature media if possible. Cycle fish-less using pure ammonia (~0.5 ppm start) and track decline curves. Confirm full nitrite→nitrate conversion before stocking — stability first, livestock second.
Water Chemistry & Balance
Good water is steady water. Think of chemistry as the shrimp’s entire world — slow, gentle changes keep them relaxed and grazing. The basics below tell you what matters and how to keep it in the sweet spot.
Variance control beats numeric chasing. Prioritise buffer capacity, ionic balance, and oxygenation. The profiles below reflect ranges used successfully across robust Neocaridina colonies.
pH — Acidity
Aim around 7.0–7.5. Small drift is okay; big swings are not. Skip “pH Up/Down” — keep things clean and let KH do the buffering.
pH — Acidity
Run 6.8–7.6 with ≤ 0.3 daily swing. pH tracks KH and gas exchange; compare lights-off vs lights-on to gauge CO₂ impact.
GH — General Hardness
Keep 6–12 °dGH for strong shells and good moults. Too low = weak molts; too high is usually fine if stable.
GH — General Hardness
Best results at 7–10 °dGH. Below 4 risks exuviae failure; above ~14 may dent hatch rate. Adjust with precise remineraliser dosing.
KH — Carbonate Hardness
KH is pH’s bodyguard. Keep 3–8 °dKH. If it’s low, add a bit of crushed coral to your filter for a slow, steady lift.
KH — Carbonate Hardness
Target 4–6 °dKH. Declining KH implies acid load or substrate exhaustion. Use coral grit in baskets for controlled buffering.
TDS — Total Dissolved Solids
Think “how much stuff” is dissolved. Most tanks do well at 180–260 ppm. It creeps up with feeding and top-ups — keep an eye on trends.
TDS — Total Dissolved Solids
Hold 180–240 ppm for osmotic consistency. Correlate with GH/KH; TDS is a trend tool, not a target. Recalibrate meters monthly.
Testing Routine
- Test weekly at first; move to fortnightly/monthly once stable.
- Use liquid kits. Test before water changes — that’s the water your shrimp live in.
- Log pH, KH, GH, nitrate, and TDS together — trends tell the real story.
Testing Routine
- Audit weekly variance; batch log readings.
- Compare pre/post-change conductivity, pH, and nitrate.
- Long-term consistency trumps micro-adjustments.
Tap vs RO Water
Most UK tap works if it hits the ranges above. If yours is extreme, you can blend with RO later — no need to start complex.
Tap vs RO Water
RO + salts provides repeatability across water changes and tanks. Keep a fixed grams-per-litre recipe per line to maintain osmotic continuity.
Raise KH Gently
- Bag of crushed coral in the filter; check weekly.
- Aim +1 °dKH over 1–2 weeks, not overnight.
Lower TDS Safely
- Do small, frequent changes with lower-TDS water.
- Keep temperature and pH matched to avoid shock.
Fix pH Swings
- Check KH; increase aeration/surface ripple.
- Reduce organics (less feeding, light filter rinse).
Raise KH Gently
- Add crushed coral basket; measure KH daily until target met.
- Never exceed +1 °dKH per 3 days.
Lower TDS Safely
- Replace 10–15% water with RO blend; recheck GH after 24h.
- Keep ΔT ≤1°C to prevent osmotic stress.
Fix pH Swings
- Audit KH decay rate; increase flow and biological export.
- Balance light intensity vs respiration load.
Ready to grow your own colony?
Water Cycling
Cycling grows the good bacteria that turn toxic ammonia → nitrite → nitrate. Start the tank, add a safe ammonia source (pure ammonia or a tiny pinch of fish food), and test every few days. Only add shrimp when ammonia = 0 and nitrite = 0 for several days. Most tanks take 4–6 weeks.
Establish nitrification by seeding media and dosing a measurable ammonia load (~0.5 ppm). Track NH₃ → NO₂⁻ → NO₃⁻ curves; verify 24 h full conversion at operating temperature. Maintain high DO and stable KH to prevent nitrite stalls.
Ammonia (NH₃)
From waste & food. Target 0 ppm before stocking.
Nitrite (NO₂⁻)
Intermediate and harmful. Keep at 0 ppm before stocking.
Nitrate (NO₃⁻)
End product; less toxic. Keep under 20–40 ppm via plants and water changes.
Water Change
Do 10–20% weekly to export nitrate. Always dechlorinate tap water.
Cycling time varies with temperature, seeded media, and oxygenation. When in doubt, wait another week — shrimp reward patience.
Acclimation & Quarantine
Shrimp don’t like surprises. Take it slow: match temperature, drip in your tank water, and give them a calm, covered space to settle. A short quarantine keeps your main colony safe.
Equalise osmotic pressure and gas saturation to cut post-transfer mortality. Control deltas (ΔT ≤ 1–2 °C, small pH/TDS steps over 45–90 min), keep O2 high, and light levels low. A dedicated holding tank protects established lines.
Arrival-Day Checklist
- Dim lights; float bag for 15–20 min.
- Set up a drip line with airline and valve.
- Have dechlorinator ready.
- Fit a pre-filter sponge and ensure plant cover.
Arrival-Day Checklist
- Darken room; equalise ΔT before opening.
- Use ~2–4 drops/sec drip with good aeration.
- Match and condition top-up water separately.
- Keep intakes guarded and cover tight.
Drip Acclimation — Step by Step
Open bag into a clean container; no dechlorinator.
Start siphon at ~2–4 drops/sec.
When volume doubles, discard half and repeat. ~60–90 min total.
Net shrimp only; keep lights dim that evening.
Drip Acclimation — Step by Step
No conditioners in vessel; aerate if DO is low.
Run 2–4 drops/sec (~2 % system vol/min).
Limit ΔT ≤ 1–2 °C and ΔTDS < 20 ppm over 45–90 min.
Net shrimp; release near cover under low light.
First 48 Hours
- No feed day 1; tiny feed day 2.
- Look for grazing and clean moults.
- Ammonia / Nitrite = 0.
First 48 Hours
- Nil feed day 1; micro-feed day 2 if behaviour normal.
- Watch moulting & O₂ stability.
- NH₃/NO₂⁻ = 0 at all times.
Quarantine
- 10–20 L bare-bottom with seeded sponge.
- Match display parameters; hold 2–4 weeks.
- No meds; keep water clean.
Quarantine
- 10–20 L tank, matched params, 2–4 weeks.
- Botanicals or ≤ 1 g/L salt discourage epibionts.
- Avoid copper or formalin agents.
Plant Prep (Shrimp-Safe)
- Rinse plants; remove wool/clips.
- Alum dip: 1 tbsp/L × 30–60 min.
- H₂O₂: 3 % at 1:20 × 1–2 min.
Plant Prep (Shrimp-Safe)
- Rinse; pre-quarantine if possible.
- Alum ~ 1 tbsp/L × 30–60 min (rinse).
- H₂O₂ 3 % 1:20 × 1–2 min (avoid mosses).
Transit Issues & DOA — Quick Actions
| Sign | Likely Cause | What to Do |
|---|---|---|
| Cold or overheated bag | Transit / insulation | Re-warm/cool gradually; dim lights; document photos. |
| Milky / foul water | Low O₂ / waste | Shorten acclimation; boost aeration; fresh carbon in filter. |
| Still shrimp | Temp shock | Never add bag water; photograph & contact us for DOA. |
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Transit Issues & DOA — Quick Actions
| Sign | Likely Cause | What to Do |
|---|---|---|
| Thermal shock | ΔT during transit | Re-equalise slowly; acclimate low light; log temps/photos. |
| Foul odour / cloudy bag | Waste / low DO | Aerate; shorten drip; add carbon post-transfer. |
| High mortality | Severe stress | No bag water; document & contact DOA support. |
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Feeding & Nutrition
Shrimp are gentle grazers. Most of their diet is biofilm and algae… Keep portions tiny and the water will stay sweet.
Prioritise continuous periphyton access… Set cadence by biofilm productivity and disappearance time.
What to Feed
- Biofilm & Algae: Encourage with botanicals, mosses, moderate light.
- Shrimp Pellets/Wafers: Balanced staples.
- Powdered Foods: Crucial for shrimplets.
- Veg & Extras: Blanched spinach/courgette/pumpkin; occasional protein treats.
- Mineral Support: Good GH (7–10 dGH) aids clean moults and egg quality.
What to Feed
- Bias towards periphyton; prepared feeds to tune protein/fibre.
- Powders for shrimplet coverage; post-lights dosing improves access.
- Rotate protein %; correlate with moult success and nitrate trend.
Frequency
Feed 3–4×/week in tiny amounts. If food is visible after 2–3 hours, it was too much.
Frequency
Match cadence to biofilm: high-biofilm tanks 2–3×/week; sparse racks = targeted micro-feeds.
Portion Size
For 10–20 shrimp, a pellet piece the size of a pinky nail is plenty. Reduce if leftovers remain.
Portion Size
Dose to 60–120 min disappearance. Use dishes for auditability; log nitrate vs feed weight.
Clean-Up
Remove uneaten food within 2–3 hours to avoid cloudiness and pests.
Clean-Up
Siphon protein residues; avoid organic spikes that crash biofilm.
Biofilm Builder Checklist
- Catappa leaves: replace as they skeletonise.
- Moss mass: one dense patch per 30 cm of tank length.
- Gentle light: 6–8 h/day.
- Stable flow: through plants; keep O₂ high.
- Skip a feed: give “biofilm days”.
Seasonal & Tank-Specific Tweaks
- Warm spells (>26 °C): lower feed density, boost aeration; watch moults.
- New tanks: rely on powders until biofilm catches up.
- Breeding racks: micro-feed post-lights; track nitrate weekly.
Food Types — Quick Compare
| Food | Use Case | Beginner Tips |
|---|---|---|
| Pellets/Wafers | Balanced staple | Tiny piece, 2–3×/week |
| Powdered Foods | Shrimplet coverage | Pinch dusting; watch clarity |
| Veg (blanched) | Fibre & enrichment | Remove after 2–3 h |
| Leaves/Botanicals | Biofilm generator | Replace when fragile |
Food Types — Quick Compare
| Food | Use Case | Tips | Experienced Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Pellets/Wafers | Balanced staple | Dose to 60–120 min vanish | Alternate protein %; check moult rate vs nitrate |
| Powdered Foods | Shrimplet coverage | Dust after lights-out | Improves juvenile uptake without adult crowding |
| Veg (blanched) | Fibre & enrichment | Paper-thin slices | Pair with alder cones for biofilm boost |
| Leaves/Botanicals | Biofilm generator | Stagger additions | Keeps periphyton yield continuous |
Example Week
- Mon: Tiny shrimp pellet
- Wed: Blanched spinach (thin slice)
- Fri: Powdered micro-food
- Sun: No feed — biofilm day
Example Week
- Mon: Spirulina wafer (audit 90–120 min)
- Tue: Micro-powder (shrimplets)
- Thu: Protein wafer ½-dose
- Sat: Fast / biofilm review
Feeding Red Flags
- Food remains after 2–3 hours → overfeeding
- Cloudy water or oily film → foods too rich or too frequent
- Sluggish shrimp or failed moults → review GH and nitrate
Feeding Red Flags
- Persistent residues → reduce protein density
- Biofilm crash → check organic load & O₂
- Moult issues → verify GH 7–10 & NO₃⁻ < 20–40 ppm
Habitat & Aquascaping
In the wild, Neocaridina shrimp live in calm, plant-rich streams across East Asia — shallow waters with gentle flow, leaf litter, and endless hiding spots. Re-creating that environment in your tank helps them feel at home. Think of aquascaping as the shrimp’s world: every leaf, moss strand, and rock becomes a restaurant, a playground, and a nursery.
Neocaridina davidi thrive in structured, detritus-moderated systems that mimic stream margins and backwaters. Design for high micro-surface per litre, stable oxygen gradients, and predictable shear. Mosses, botanicals, and driftwood maximise periphyton productivity — the base of long-term colony stability.
Core Design Principles
A balanced shrimp habitat gives places to graze, hide, and moult safely. Textured surfaces grow biofilm — their main food — so more texture means less maintenance.
- Surface Area: Moss, wood, and leaves build your biofilm engine.
- Cover & Contrast: Dense plants for babies; open areas for feeding.
- Gentle Flow: Circulation that moves debris, not shrimp.
- Safe Intakes: Always use a sponge or fine guard.
Core Design Principles
Orient coarse structures up-current to improve colonisation; layer detritus-catching botanicals where microbial cycling benefits outweigh clarity. Map flow pre-stocking to avoid long-term stagnation.
- High micro-surface: Epiphytes + porous woods.
- Flow shaping: Even O₂, avoid high shear near moulting zones.
- Guarded intakes: Fine pore prefilters for shrimplets.
- Service corridor: Keep a clean, open feeding zone.
Shrimp-Safe Mosses & Plants
Plants purify water, provide oxygen, and create a living buffet of micro-life. Mosses like Java and Subwassertang are gold-standard for breeding.
| Plant | Why Shrimp Love It | Placement |
|---|---|---|
| Java / Christmas Moss | Dense grazing zones; shrimplet nursery. | Wood, rock, or mesh |
| Subwassertang | Traps micro-foods; excellent shelter. | Corners / shaded piles |
| Anubias / Buce | Hardy epiphytes; low-light grazing leaves. | Tied to wood/stones |
| Hornwort / Floaters | Fine roots collect particles; diffuse light. | Surface layer |
| Cryptocoryne | Soft clumps add cover and depth. | Mid-ground |
Attach moss with cotton or glue; trim monthly to refresh biofilm and avoid clogging intakes.
Botanicals & Natural Add-Ons
Use botanicals to steer chemistry and microbial succession.
- Catappa leaves: Humics, microfauna; stagger additions.
- Alder cones: Gentle acids + inoculum for stability.
- Cholla wood: Porous tunnels = continuous shrimplet forage.
- Crushed coral (filter): KH support in soft water without substrate swings.
Layout Blueprint
Arrange materials to create grazing corridors and safe micro-habitats. Leave a clear front section for feeding and easy health checks.
Layout Blueprint
Use up-current hardscape to seed periphyton; keep a front audit lane for feeding and observation. Rotate wood/rock quarterly to refresh graze surfaces.
Flow, Filtration & Safety
Neocaridina prefer steady, gentle flow. Use sponge filters or guarded intakes to move water through moss and plants.
- Gentle movement: visible surface ripple; slow swirls through the scape.
- Intake safety: fine pre-filter sponge on every inlet.
- Detritus control: keep one open area for light siphoning — don’t vacuum moss.
Flow, Filtration & Safety
- O₂ strategy: maintain surface agitation post-trim; high DO prevents nitrite stalls.
- Turnover: even distribution beats high rate; avoid local high shear near moulting zones.
- Service corridor: keep a clear lane for feeding audit and detritus export.
Starter Aquascape Kit
- 1–2 pieces of branching driftwood
- Smooth stones (hand-sized)
- 2–3 portions of Java/Christmas Moss + Subwassertang
- 3–5 catappa leaves + a few alder cones
- Fine sand foreground for a feeding zone
Common Mistakes
- Debris traps from overcrowded décor.
- Sharp lava/rough slate harming shrimplets.
- Unprotected intakes entraining juveniles.
- Excess light — pushes algae over biofilm.
Scape Maintenance That Shrimp Appreciate
Shrimp tanks like small, regular care. Avoid deep cleans; gentle upkeep preserves micro-life.
- Trim moss/floaters lightly; reuse trimmings as cover.
- Rotate wood/rocks occasionally to refresh grazing zones.
- After trims or water changes, boost aeration for 24 h.
- Never scrub biofilm away — that’s their buffet!
Breeding & Colony Management
Neocaridina shrimp are among the easiest aquarium invertebrates to breed. With stable water, gentle flow, and plenty of moss, females carry eggs ~1 month then release miniature shrimp — no special kit needed.
Sustained reproduction hinges on nutrient balance and micro-habitat diversity. Keep NO₃⁻ < 30 ppm, steady GH/KH, and continuous periphyton. Export or cull to avoid genetic drift and biofilm collapse at high densities.
Breeding Overview
After a female moults, pheromones trigger a male “swim frenzy.” Fertilised, she becomes berried and fans eggs until hatch; shrimplets are fully formed and independent.
- Temperature: 22–25 °C encourages consistent breeding.
- pH 6.8–7.8, GH 8–12, KH 4–8 — prioritise stability.
- Provide dense moss and botanicals for shrimplet cover/grazing.
- Guard all intakes with sponge filters or fine pre-filters.
Egg Development Timeline
Day 0 – Fertilisation
Yellow/green eggs; keep flow calm and temperature ~23 °C.Day 7 – Eye Spots
Dark eye dots appear; gentle aeration helps prevent fungus.Day 14 – Hatching Prep
Eggs darken as shrimplets fully form.Day 18–21 – Hatch
Babies emerge; hide in moss and graze biofilm.Warmer tanks = shorter incubation (≈16 days at 26 °C). Avoid parameter swings.
Egg Development Timeline
Day 0
Post-moult pairing; stabilise O₂ and ΔT ≤ 1–2 °C.~Day 7
Eyes visible; maintain DO, avoid organics spikes.~Day 14
Pre-hatch darkening; minimise disturbances.Day 18–21
Hatch; ensure micro-graze refugia (moss/botanicals).Incubation compresses with temperature; prioritise variance control over target chasing.
Population Balance
Shrimp multiply fast — re-home extras or upsize before crowding. Too many mouths strain food and oxygen.
Population Balance
Hold density < ~8 shrimp/L to keep periphyton supply ahead of demand; otherwise export or split lines.
Protecting Shrimplets
- Fine-leaf mosses and cholla wood = nursery zones.
- Sponge-cover every intake.
- No fish tankmates if you want 90–100% survival.
Protecting Shrimplets
- Periphyton continuity > pellet density.
- Audit intakes weekly; replace clogged pre-filters.
- Run dusk micro-feeds for juvenile access.
Colour Genetics
All colours are Neocaridina davidi and interbreed. Mixing lines → wild-type/muddy offspring.
- Keep one colour line per tank for purity.
- Cross-colour = brown/clear juveniles.
- Refresh with unrelated stock yearly.
Selective Breeding
- Retain brightest/healthiest adults.
- Move culls to a mixed grow-out, not the bin.
- Biofilm-forward diets deepen colour more than additives.
Female Identification
Females are larger with a curved underbelly and a visible “saddle” where eggs develop pre-fertilisation.
Colony Growth Estimator
A quick way to project growth. Real outcomes depend on food, cover, and temperature.
Projection = adults × female ratio × eggs × survival × clutches/month. Use for space/filtration planning.
Estimate
Tip: Above ~10–15 adults per 10 L, split or upgrade the tank.
Tank Mates & Compatibility
Choose tiny, peaceful species and give your shrimp lots of cover. For maximum breeding, shrimp-only wins; otherwise the matrix below shows what usually works — and what to avoid.
Plan around mouth size, foraging style, and feeding pressure. Recruitment tracks micro-surface density and refugia. Use micro-feeds to deflect predation; treat the matrix as a risk curve, not absolute.
Safe Picks (Best with Shrimp)
- Snails: Nerite, Ramshorn, Malaysian Trumpet; Mystery/Apple are fine but add bioload.
- Algae Crew: Otocinclus (mature tanks only); Stiphodon in larger, high-flow setups.
- Bottom Buddies: Pygmy/Habrosus/Hastatus Corydoras.
- Nano Schoolers: Ember, Chilli/Phoenix rasbora, White cloud (dense cover).
- Consider with cover: Least killifish, CPD — small mouths, still opportunistic.
- Shrimp-only: Best for near-100% shrimplet survival.
Safe Picks (Best with Shrimp)
- Small mouth, midwater foragers; low substrate focus.
- Biofilm competitors (e.g., Stiphodon) only in high-O₂ systems.
- Dwarf Corys = safe; audit sand disturbance in feeding zones.
- Schoolers OK with moss density; deflect with timed micro-feeds.
- For breeding projects, isolate fish pressure entirely.
Compatibility Matrix
Choose a category to filter the matrix. Showing: Fish
| Group | Example Species | With Adults | With Shrimplets | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Microrasboras | Chilli, Phoenix, Emerald dwarf | ✅ Usually fine | ⚠️ Some loss | Dense planting and controlled feeding reduce hunting. |
| Small Tetras | Ember, Green neon | ✅ Usually fine | ⚠️ Some loss | Schooling helps; provide moss thickets. |
| White Cloud Minnow | Tanichthys | ✅ Usually fine | ⚠️ Some loss | Cool-tolerant; cover needed for babies. |
| Least Killifish | H. formosa | ✅ Often fine | ⚠️ Some loss | Tiny mouths; still opportunistic — plant heavily. |
| CPD | Celestial Pearl Danio | ⚠️ Active | ❗ Variable | Better than zebra danios; still pick exposed shrimplets. |
| Dwarf Corydoras | Pygmy, Habrosus, Hastatus | ✅ Safe | ⚠️ Gentle foragers | Won’t target shrimp; may disturb open sand. |
| Bristlenose Pleco | Ancistrus | ✅ Usually fine | ⚠️ Bulky | May bulldoze scape; provide wood and greens. |
| Hillstream Loach | Sewellia, Gastromyzon | ⚠️ Competes | ❗ Mixed | Biofilm competitor; needs strong flow/oxygen. |
| Neon/Cardinal | Paracheirodon | ⚠️ Mixed | ❌ Predation | Often pick shrimplets; avoid for breeding goals. |
| Endler/Guppy | Poecilia | ⚠️ Mixed | ❌ Predation | Constant pickers; colonies struggle to recruit. |
| Harlequin Rasbora | Trigonostigma | ⚠️ Mixed | ❌ Predation | Bigger mouths; shrimplet loss likely. |
| Ricefish | Oryzias | ✅ Usually fine | ⚠️ Some loss | Peaceful but opportunistic; plant heavily. |
| Otocinclus | Otocinclus spp. | ✅ Safe | ✅ Safe | Introduce only to mature, stable aquaria. |
Assumes planted scapes with hiding spaces. Sparse scapes or heavy feeding increase predation risk.
| Group | Example Species | With Adults | With Shrimplets | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Snails | Nerite, Ramshorn, MTS, Mystery/Apple | ✅ Safe | ✅ Safe | Add calcium for shells; apples increase bioload. |
| Amano Shrimp | Caridina multidentata | ✅ Safe | ⚠️ Outcompete | Bold feeders; target-feed Neocaridina. |
| Fan/Bamboo Shrimp | Atyopsis, Atya | ✅ Safe | ✅ Safe | Need flow and suspended micro-food; larger tanks. |
| Filter Shrimp | Atya gabonensis | ✅ Safe | ✅ Safe | Big but peaceful; high oxygen/flow required. |
| Dwarf Crayfish | CPO | ⚠️ Nippy | ❌ Predation | May catch shrimplets; avoid for breeding tanks. |
| Freshwater Clams | Corbicula spp. | ⚠️ Advanced | ⚠️ Advanced | Filter feeders; require micro-food, mature tanks. |
Inverts are generally safe; watch competition for biofilm and keep oxygen high.
| Group | Example Species | Why Risky | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Betta | Betta splendens | High predation | Some ignore adults; many hunt — avoid for breeding tanks. |
| Gourami | Dwarf, Pearl, Sparkling | Predation | Inquisitive pickers; not recommended. |
| Barbs | Tiger, Rosy | Aggression & nipping | Will harass shrimp. |
| Dwarf Cichlids | Apistos, Rams, Kribs | Predators | Actively hunt shrimp and shrimplets. |
| Goldfish | Carassius auratus | Size & waste | Incompatible parameters & big mouths. |
| Loaches (many) | Kuhli, Yo-yo | Invert foragers | Kuhlis sometimes okay in heavy cover; shrimplet risk remains. |
| SAE | Crossocheilus | Size & activity | Outgrow nano systems, disturb shrimp. |
If you want a self-sustaining shrimp colony, avoid species listed here — or stay shrimp-only.
Compatibility Matrix
Choose a category to filter the matrix. Showing: Fish
| Group | Example Species | Adults | Juveniles | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Microrasboras | Chilli, Phoenix, EDR | ✅ | ⚠️ | Recruitment ↑ with moss density; deflect with dusk micro-feeds. |
| Small Tetras | Ember, Green neon | ✅ | ⚠️ | Maintain cover corridors; avoid frenzy feeding. |
| Dwarf Corys | Hastatus group | ✅ | ✅ | Benign; monitor sand turnover near shrimplet zones. |
| Ricefish | Oryzias | ✅ | ⚠️ | Opportunistic; tune feeding window. |
| Otocinclus | Oto spp. | ✅ | ✅ | Only in mature, oxygen-stable systems. |
| Endlers/Guppies | Poecilia | ⚠️ | ❌ | Persistent peckers; recruitment collapses in sparse scapes. |
| Neon/Cardinal | Paracheirodon | ⚠️ | ❌ | Predation at lights-on; shift feed cadence or avoid. |
| Group | Examples | Adults | Juveniles | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Snails | Nerite, Ramshorn, MTS, Apple | ✅ | ✅ | Manage Ca/alk for shells; apples ↑ organics. |
| Amano | Caridina multidentata | ✅ | ⚠️ | Food competition — target-feed Neocaridina. |
| Fan/Filter Shrimp | Atyopsis, Atya | ✅ | ✅ | Require strong flow and suspended micro-food; high O₂. |
| Dwarf Crayfish | CPO | ⚠️ | ❌ | Nips antennae; predation events in dense cover. |
| Group | Examples | Risk | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Bettas | Betta splendens | Predation/personality | Keep separate from breeding lines. |
| Gourami | Dwarf/Pearl/Sparkling | Shrimplet predation | High investigative pressure. |
| Cichlids (dwarf) | Apisto/Ram/Krib | Predators | Active hunting behaviour. |
| Loaches | Kuhli, Yo-yo | Invert foragers | Kuhli marginal in very heavy cover; still risky. |
| SAE | Crossocheilus | Size/activity | Outgrow nano systems; stress shrimp. |
How to Choose Neocaridina Tank Mates
Pick small, calm species that don’t scour the substrate. A planted scape with moss, wood, and leaf litter massively improves shrimplet survival. Stock slowly and observe behaviour after each addition.
- Size matters: tiny mouths = lower risk; babies are most vulnerable.
- Feed smart: small, frequent feeds; avoid “frenzy” feeding.
- Refuge: dense moss thickets and fine textures for instant hiding.
How to Choose Neocaridina Tank Mates
- Mouth-gape & foraging mode determine juvenile risk more than temperament labels.
- Deflect with timed micro-feeds; avoid high-lumen dusk spikes that cue hunting.
- Increase surface complexity or reduce fish biomass if recruitment falls.
Health & Troubleshooting
If something looks off, don’t panic. Work the checklist below, change a little water, and keep oxygen up. Most issues trace back to ammonia/nitrite spikes, temperature swings, or overfeeding.
Treat issues as signal: confirm baseline (NH₃/NH₄⁺, NO₂⁻, NO₃⁻, temp, O₂), review the last 7 days’ inputs (feeding, trims, maintenance), then apply the minimal corrective change.
Understanding Shrimp Health
Healthy Neocaridina graze constantly, show even colour, and move with purpose. When water chemistry drifts or oxygen drops, the first signs are subtle: clumped antennae, reduced foraging, hovering at the surface, or hiding during the day. Because shrimp breathe through gills and rely on stable osmotic pressure, small, steady conditions matter more than chasing perfect numbers. Keep changes gradual, avoid big temperature or TDS jumps, and prioritise gentle surface ripple for oxygen.
Understanding Shrimp Health
Most “mystery losses” are system responses to accumulated organics and low O₂. Track nitrate and conductance weekly, log KH→pH behaviour, and schedule small but frequent exports. A consistent remineralising recipe and disciplined feeding routine stabilise moults and reproduction.
Common Symptoms — Causes — Fixes
Likely: temp swings, elevated ammonia/nitrite, low oxygen, or recent big changes.
Fix: test NH₃/NH₄⁺ & NO₂⁻ (should be 0), raise aeration, do a 20–30% water change with matched temp, pause feeding 24 hrs, and resume tiny portions.
Likely: chlorine/chloramine not fully neutralised, temp/TDS shock, pH swing.
Fix: always dechlorinate; pre-warm water; match TDS within ~30–50 of tank; change smaller amounts more often.
Likely: rapid parameter change, low minerals, or stress during pre-moult.
Fix: stabilise temp, ensure adequate GH (calcium/magnesium), feed sparingly, and add botanicals (almond leaves).
Likely: predation, lack of cover, filter intake suction, or micro-food shortage.
Fix: add fine-leaf plants/moss, fit a pre-filter sponge, micro-dust powdered foods, or run shrimp-only if you want max survival.
Likely: new tank biology or recent heavy feeding.
Fix: increase aeration/flow, cut feeding, small water changes, and give the filter time. Confirm ammonia/nitrite are zero.
Likely: overfeeding leading to pest population booms.
Fix: reduce inputs, siphon manually, use traps. Many chemical treatments are shrimp-unsafe — research before dosing.
Common Symptoms — Causes — Fixes
Likely: temp variance, NH₃/NH₄⁺ or NO₂⁻ uptick, O₂ deficit, recent parameter step.
Fix: raise gas exchange, verify zero toxics, do modest matched change, hold feeding 24 h; resume micro-dosed feeds.
Likely: dechlorination failure, ΔT/TDS step, pH swing.
Fix: pre-warm and remineralise consistently; match TDS within ~30–50; split big changes into small ones.
Likely: rapid chemistry shift, mineral deficit, or stress near ecdysis.
Fix: stabilise temp; ensure GH 7–12; step changes, not jumps; support with botanicals.
Likely: predation or micro-food scarcity.
Fix: densify moss, shield intakes, dust powders post-lights, reduce fish biomass if recruitment drops.
Likely: young biofilter or organic pulse.
Fix: boost O₂/flow; trim feeding; small, matched changes; confirm NH₃/NO₂⁻ = 0.
Likely: chronic surplus food.
Fix: cut inputs; siphon/trap; avoid shrimp-unsafe meds; research before dosing.
Routine Maintenance & Testing
Keep it steady: a small water change each week, gentle sponge rinses, and quick checks for ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. Stable water and light feeding prevent most issues.
Operate a steady-state system: track nitrate slope, KH drift, and TDS creep; couple export to inputs and aim for low variance across the week.
Water-Change Planner
Plan how much a water change will reduce ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. Results update instantly.
- Ammonia or nitrite pop up after cleaning or overfeeding — choose a safe dilution.
- Nitrate creeps high and you want the expected level after one (or more) changes.
- Blending tap/RO and you need realistic outcomes based on your source readings.
pH is estimated by mixing H⁺ concentrations weighted by KH (buffering). Real tanks vary with CO₂ and acids; verify with a test kit.
Always check the label for your specific formulation and chloramine/ammonia handling.
If ammonia or nitrite remain above 0 after the change, do another small change and pause feeding until both read zero.
Model: C′ = C(1−f)n + S(1−(1−f)n) (compound dilution for repeated changes).
Weekly
10–20% Water ChangeMatch temperature, dechlorinate, and pour gently so shrimplets aren’t blasted from cover.
Aim nitrate < 20–40 ppm. Log results so trends are easy to spot.
Tiny portions; remove leftovers within 2–3 hours. Leaves/moss boost biofilm between feeds.
Fortnightly
Light Filter CareNever under the tap. Restores flow and oxygen without harming nitrifiers.
Remove decaying leaves; vacuum light detritus but keep moss thickets intact.
Big jumps? Reduce feeding and add an extra small change.
Watch creep (>~30–50 over baseline). Correlate with top-offs and inputs.
Monthly
Deep Health CheckOnly if flow drops. Never replace all media at once.
Look for berried females, shrimplets, clean moults, and good grazing activity.
Airlines, valves, heater accuracy, seals — swap worn parts before they fail.
How much water should I change?
10–20% weekly keeps parameters stable. Bigger changes are fine if temp and pH match closely.
Tune by export: if nitrate rises >15 ppm/week, add a mid-week 10% change or reduce inputs.
Shopping List & Setup Builder
Everything you need for a healthy Neocaridina shrimp tank in the UK. Pick a size preset, then tap Buy on Amazon. Each item includes a quick note on why it matters so you can spend smart and avoid gimmicks.
Lean kit for stable neo systems: maximise biological surface area, maintain gentle, oxygen-rich flow, and bias toward materials that encourage periphyton.
Neocaridina shrimp setup (UK): start with a rectangular glass tank and a large-pore sponge filter driven by a quiet air pump. This combination gives reliable biological filtration, strong oxygenation, and shrimplet-safe intakes. Add fine sand or smooth gravel, mosses and epiphytes for cover, and botanicals (catappa leaves) to seed biofilm. Use a reputable dechlorinator at every water change, and keep a liquid test kit for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and pH.
For beginners, the sweet spot is a 40–60 L tank: easier to stabilise and still affordable. Keep feeding tiny and varied, trim plants regularly, and test before your weekly water change to catch trends.
For experienced keepers, prioritise surface area and biofilm management. Floaters moderate light; a dual sponge or oversized corner sponge increases nitrifier headroom; lily pipes or spray bars can be added later if you upsize flow.
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Myths & Mistakes to Avoid
Keep these straight and you’ll dodge most beginner headaches: stable water, gentle feeding, and lots of plant cover beat gadgets every time.
Most failures trace to variance and excess organics. Below are common red herrings and how to frame them for a steady-state colony.
Neocaridina myths persist because shrimp appear to “clean” a tank while quietly depending on stable chemistry and oxygen. Small, regular exports (10–20% weekly), light feeding, and dense moss prevent the conditions that create most problems. Test before your change, log nitrate and KH trends, and avoid big swings—consistency outperforms chasing perfect numbers.
Shrimp “clean the tank so I don’t need water changes.”
They graze algae and detritus but don’t remove nitrate or refresh minerals.
Reality
Plan 10–20% weekly. That exports nitrate and restores calcium/magnesium for good moults.
More food = faster growth & breeding.
Overfeeding drives cloudy water and pests, then biofilm crashes.
Reality
Feed tiny portions 3–4×/week and grow biofilm with moss and botanicals; shrimplets thrive on micro-foods.
Any “community fish” is shrimplet-safe.
Even small mouths hunt babies when they can.
Reality
Choose true nano-friendly species and pack cover—or go shrimp-only for near-100% survival.
Do This
- Cycle fully and keep ammonia/nitrite = 0.
- Fit a pre-filter sponge on all intakes.
- Grow cover: moss, fine leaves, botanicals → more surfaces = more biofilm.
- Change 10–20% weekly with matched, dechlorinated water.
- Test nitrate and tune feeding to keep < 20–40 ppm.
Avoid This
- Big swings in temp, pH, or TDS during water changes.
- “Cleaning” all filter media at once.
- Dosing copper-bearing meds/ferts unless verified shrimp-safe.
- Overstocking fish that will hunt shrimplets.
- Chasing perfect numbers instead of consistency.
FAQs
Usually not. Most Neocaridina do well in stable, dechlorinated tap water within the recommended ranges.
RO + remineraliser is optional for out-of-range or seasonally variable taps; focus on steady GH/KH and low variance.
No — keep it steady in the healthy range (roughly 6.8–7.8).
pH follows alkalinity and CO₂. Track KH and diurnal swing; minimise variance rather than target a number.
Tiny portions 3–4× weekly; remove leftovers within 2–3 hours.
Let biofilm do the heavy lifting; modulate inputs by nitrate slope and observe grazing behaviour post-feed.
10–20% weekly keeps things stable; match temperature and dechlorinate.
Control export by trend: if nitrate rises >15 ppm/week, add a mid-week 10% or reduce inputs.
A gentle sponge filter is strongly recommended; a heater is helpful if your room swings a lot.
Aim for stable 20–24 °C and high O₂. Large thermal swings and low turnover correlate with most stress signals.
Avoid meds/ferts listing copper unless marked shrimp-safe.
Trace Cu in quality foods/ferts is typically chelated/low; acute toxicity risk is from therapeutic doses and tap spikes.
Usually chlorine/chloramine, temperature shock, or big pH/TDS swings.
Match TDS within ~30–50, pre-warm, and dechlorinate; prefer smaller, more frequent exports.
They’ll interbreed and drift toward wild/brown over time.
All colour morphs are N. davidi; cross-mating is fertile. Keep lines separate if you want colour fidelity.
Start light; aim for about 10–15 adults per 10 L with plenty of plants.
Recruitment saturates as biofilm becomes limiting; manage density <~8/L and export selectively.
Slow drip acclimate and add to a planted tank; keep lights low for the first day.
Temperature-equalise, then 60–90 min drip by TDS/pH delta; quarantine if mixed sources.
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